by Federica Lassi
For those seeking a regenerating hike through forests, splendid views of Lake Como and the surrounding mountains, the ring tour of Monte Fopp (1050 metres), starting and returning from Ortanella, is the ideal excursion.
The starting point of our itinerary, reachable by car, is a clearing located just after the Agriturismo Cacciatori in the Ortanella area (960 metres), in the municipality of Esino Lario. Already here, you will find signs for Monte Fopp, as well as for other points of interest such as San Pietro, Alpe di Esino and Alpe di Lierna, and the possibility to connect with the Sentiero del Viandante. At the start of the trail, which marks the beginning of the loop, a barrier topped by a sign indicates the path as an agro-silvo-pastoral route. Once past it, you will walk alongside trees on your left, which soon give way to a clearing with a few picnic tables. Turning right, you will enter a dense wood, with some barbecue areas in between.
Here the gradient begins to become more evident, with the path alternating between easier sections and more challenging climbs. Continuing on, a splendid view of Esino Lario opens up. As you continue the ascent, the elevation gain becomes less severe for a stretch, allowing you to admire the landscape and, after a series of well-marked bends, you reach the first panoramic viewpoint of the trail from which you can enjoy, by sitting on a bench positioned on the promontory, a privileged view of Ortanella and the peaks towering above it. When the break is over, it's time to get back on the move: a steep climb immediately begins, leading to the next panoramic viewpoint, undoubtedly the most striking one.
Before reaching it, you need to go down some stretches before tackling a steeper slope that leads to the second viewpoint.
From here there is an extraordinary view of the centre of the lake, with its sparkling waters and the lakeside villages reflected in them. The view from the left sweeps as far as Mandello, climbs towards Lierna, takes in Bellagio and, further on, lingers over Menaggio. Here too there is no shortage of benches on which to rest, flanked by a panel showing all the peaks before the hiker's eyes: Monte San Primo, Monte Crocione, the Torrione and Monte Grona, to name but a few. Past this vantage point, which can be reached in about twenty minutes from Ortanella, the route becomes gentler, sinuously following the slope of the mountain on a slight descent. Two hairpin bends are encountered, after which the view of the lake momentarily disappears, leaving room for new mountain views and later, the village of Esino. At a certain point you cross the path coming up from Varenna, not long before you reach Ortanella. As on the way up, here is a barrier, this time a small chain, near which, on the right, you can see a small madonnina set among the rocks. A little further on is a fountain, useful for refreshing oneself before tackling the last section of the loop. The forest gives way to the first houses of Ortanella, as far as the starting clearing.
The Monte Fopp circular route, just over four kilometres long, is suitable for hikers of all levels, with few inclines and no particularly treacherous sections. Along the path, you can find several interactive signs for children about woodland animals, as well as panels created by the Esino Grigne Museum that illustrate the area's archaeology, fauna, flora, geology, and legends, through short narratives accessible via QR code. The trail can also be cycled on a mountain bike.
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