by Federica Lassi
When a product enters a market and is purchased, consumers don't always know its origin, the journey it has taken to reach their hands, the effort that went into making it. The connection with the territory it comes from.
In the case of DOP Lake Como oil, a very close, visceral link: the place where the olives are grown generates very specific influences on the product, characterising and differentiating it from all others. At the same time, the existence of olive groves on the terraces of the Lario leads to the transformation of this ecosystem. Starting with the climate, based on harsh winters and cold temperatures which, combined with the presence of
centuries-old plants capable of withstanding such conditions, has led to the development of olive cultivation.
on Lake Como and it were possible to have a good product, further enhanced by temperature fluctuations
between day and night, bearers of moisture.
“These are conditions that also determine the ripening and drying times on the plant – he says”
Leonardo “Poppo” Enicanti, owner of the eponymous farm located in Bellano, precisely in
Biosio, where there is an olive press where Larian olives are transformed into DOP Laghi Lombardi – Lario – oil.
While in Sicily the olives blossom in April, here it happens at the end of May/beginning of June, but the harvest always starts in October. The olives, therefore, stay one month less on the tree and acquire different characteristics”. In organoleptic terms, a Lake Como PDO oil has scents of almond and artichoke, recognisable even to the less experienced, while chemically it has a low acidity, below 0.2%. As far as the variety of plants that can be used is concerned, the specifications are frantoio leccino at 80% and 20% of any variety. Territory that, as we can see, is both a cross and a delight because, while it enhances and makes unique the Lake Como PDO oil, it is very difficult to work mechanically. ’On the terraces, operations are mainly carried out manually,“ Enicanti points out, ”the problem is that there is less and less manpower, even though more people are reclaiming the land, including young people. For the latter, I would say that there would be significant margins for work in olive-growing because the olive tree is a year-round plant, starting with pruning that lasts until May, continuing in the summer with treatments and disease control (be they insects or fungi), and ending with the harvest in October. In short, for those who want to take up the activity and learn, the possibilities are there'.
While it's true that mechanical means struggle to reach the fields, modernity reigns supreme in “Poppo's” oil mill. This is all the more so because oil production has increased dramatically over time; in fact, it has quintupled in twenty years. To ensure a product of the highest quality, it is essential that the facility keeps pace with technology and evolves to guarantee continuous improvement of the product.
But who are the buyers of this PDO oil? Enicanti explains: “Certainly tourists who want to take a bottle home as a souvenir. Nowadays, customers tend to be private individuals who want a quality oil to keep at home, to complement a commercial product they usually use for cooking. Previously, however, consumers would buy a bottle or two as gifts. The product struggles to enter the restaurant sector: in terms of production, the necessary volumes are not there, and it is also difficult due to the costs.”.
Looking to the future of olive cultivation in the Lario region, the objective set by producers is to enhance the image of DOP oil, which, although already positive, is important to maintain at a high level to convey the value of the product to potential consumers. In terms of production, however, hoping for growth is difficult, primarily due to bureaucratic issues: “Perhaps someone has abandoned land, wants to clear it and create an olive grove, but is discouraged by the permits and authorisations that make the entire process extremely complicated. Not to mention that"
”Economic aid is only given to agricultural companies, not to individual producers,“ clarifies ”Poppo".
Yet in recent years, thanks to olive growing, abandoned land has been reclaimed and other land has been redeveloped, demonstrating how this practice is essential in maintaining a precise image of the territory, not just from an aesthetic point of view: by cultivating olive trees, we combat hydrogeological risk and “maintain” the mountains. “Olive growing isn't just about olive oil, also because if we look at the market for our
There's not much DOP, but it's mostly about a vast territory. By focusing on a DOP oil, you're not just selling a quality product, but also providing guarantees of origin. Consumers can be sure that when they buy it, it will be from the Lake Como region. Along with the product, we're also selling a territory.” A symbiosis, between these
two entities, inseparable.
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