by Federica Lassi
There is one colour that predominates throughout the walk to the Ombrega refuge: green. Situated in the Valle Ombrega, which branches off from the Val Marcia, itself a branch of the main Valvarrone, the hut is an ideal spot from which to admire peaks such as Legnone, Legnoncino and Sasso Dirotto, as well as the last village in Valsassina, Premana. It takes about 2 hours and 15 minutes to reach it, starting the route from Alpe di Paglio, which is about 8 km long but unpretentious, always well signposted and also suitable for families with children. After leaving the car in the large car park in Palio, we take an asphalted road marked at the beginning with a large yellow sign indicating some itineraries. The first stretch is immediately uphill, although not extremely steep, and after passing a group of houses, immediately leads into the woods. Asphalt and path alternate in this first segment leading to Pian delle Betulle. After thanking the tree foliage for the moments of refreshment granted, following a wooden sign that reads ‘Rifugio Ombrega’ you arrive at a huge clearing. Here is ‘the last paradise’, Pian delle Betulle. Here you can cut across the green expanse by following a small path visible in the grass, keeping to the right the houses, the small alpine lake, the little church of the Alpini and the ski lift, which from the municipality of Margno takes you into the peace and tranquillity of the locality in just a few minutes. After the open spaces, you are once again catapulted into the wilderness: the signs say ‘Rifugio Santa Rita’ and ‘Pizzo dei Tre Signori’ and, immediately next to it on a plant, again the sign ‘Rifugio Ombrega’.
As the walk continues, the Alpe Ortighera with its huts can be seen on the right. A clearing appears and, again, a crossroads with signs indicating the destination: from here some steep hairpin bends begin. Turning around, it is possible to glimpse part of the Valsassina and a strip of Lake Como. For at least fifteen to twenty minutes you proceed without any other detours, being enraptured by the views of boundless reliefs and pastures. In the distance, a small chapel appears on a small hillock. Once at the Burnt Larch (Lares Brusàa) you are exactly halfway along the route, also the most pleasant part for the legs. Suddenly you are going slightly downhill, towards the marvel: from there, in fact, only violet flowers and lots and lots of green, without interruption. It is hard not to stop every metre to immortalise the smallest details of this scenery. In the midst of the panorama, the village of Premana also begins to appear. A new fork arrives, inviting us to head left for a direct dive into Val Marcia. The Rifugio Ombrega is about half an hour away, during which time it will be difficult to look straight ahead along the path, given the incredible surrounding landscape. With a small diversions, it is also possible to reach Alpe Dolcigo, where local cheeses are on sale. Suddenly, taking a right turn, the Rifugio Ombrega (1580 metres) appears on the horizon. It seems as if we have landed in a fairy-tale universe, from which we would never want to leave. Made of stone and recently renovated, the building is well cared for in every detail, with small balconies and windows adorned with flowers. After the walk, it must be admitted, a little pang of hunger has set in: better not to miss the refuge's typical dishes such as potato gnocchi al Bagnarel, polenta and cheese, not forgetting the home-made desserts. Just the right amount of fuel to get going again.
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