Valsassina: the beauty that does not scream, but enchants

Valsassina: the beauty that does not scream, but enchants
by Maurizio Sala, dedicated to Alfredo Polvara

There is a valley a stone's throw from Milan where time seems to stand still. A valley that does not like to show off, that does not shout its beauty but whispers it among the branches of a larch tree or along the cool bed of the Pioverna. This is Valsassina, the wild and gentle soul of Lombardy, and those who ignore it do so only because they have not yet really listened to it.

Often overlooked – too close to the city to be “exotic”, too quiet – Valsassina exists in that rare dimension where nature, history, and legend coexist. And for those patient enough to slow down and broaden their horizons, a truly fascinating Italy awaits.

Where the sky has wings: the golden eagle

Anyone who loves the mountains like I do knows that there's a moment, up there, where everything changes. It's when you look up and, against the deep blue of the sky, you see two large wings spread in flight. The golden eagle, queen of the skies, also lives here, amongst the ridges of the Grigna and the highest slopes. A sighting that reconciles you with the world. Forget “things to see in Valsassina”: this alone is worth the journey.

Along paths, pastures and legends

Valsassina is not a place for those seeking the liveliness of holiday villages. It is a land of trails and silence, of old houses with thick walls and lit fireplaces. In summer, it offers an escape from the heat of the plains, providing shade, meadows, and waterfalls: the Troggia, the Sprizzottolo, and the more adventurous Cenghen. In winter, it calls skiers to Piani di Bobbio or hikers to Alpe Giumello.

And then there's the story. A story that here blends with legend, like that of the bandit Lasco, the Robin Hood of the Valsassina. Noble by day, outlaw by night. The frescoed walls of Parlasco still tell of his deeds, and not far away another path whispers the name of the “Stria di Biss”, a healer burned as a witch because she knew the virtues of the waters.

A valley made of real things

If you want to know what to see in Valsassina, the answer is simple: You see the truth of things. Hands slicing taleggio cheese, the exertion of climbing the Grigna, the wrinkles of an old man recounting how, in days gone by, the Tartavalle thermal baths were the town's pride. Today, those baths lie abandoned, a melancholy symbol of a forgotten Italy. But the flavours persist – polenta, venison, scapinas – and the crafts endure, as in Premana, where iron is still worked with the pride of centuries.

To get lost to find yourself

It is a valley to explore without haste: on foot, by bike, with children. Among the gentle routes – such as the Monte Muggio loop or the cycle path that leads from Barzio to Taceno – and the more challenging ones, for those who dream of high ridges, such as the Pizzo dei Tre Signori or the Bogani Refuge, Valsassina knows how to speak to everyone.