Casera Vecchia di Varrone refuge: an excursion to discover the Valvarrone valley
The Varrone Valley is one of the lesser-known gems of the Lecco Alps, a corner of nature where water reigns supreme. The Varrone torrent, which springs from the slopes of Pizzo Varrone, flows sinuously towards Lake Como, crossing the valley between Premana and Dervio. This area, enchanting in every season, is a perfect starting point for excursions that allow you to immerse yourself in the unspoilt beauty of the mountains.
A popular excursion for hikers of all levels is the one that leads from Premana to the Casera Vecchia di Varrone refuge (1,675 m), located in a hollow at the foot of the majestic Pizzo Varrone. A recently renovated hut, small but cosy, offering sincere hospitality and a cuisine that conquers. An ideal place to take refuge after a walk that, while not presenting extreme difficulties, offers breathtaking views and a feeling of peace that only the mountains can offer.
The route from Premana to the Casera Vecchia di Varrone hut is relatively long, but definitely within the reach of everyone, even the less well-trained. With an altitude difference of 940 metres distributed over about 9 kilometres, the hike is a good workout without being excessively strenuous. Although there is no shortage of slightly monotonous stretches, the itinerary is mainly on an agro-pastoral road, which makes it possible to walk without too much difficulty.
Despite its simplicity, this route can also be tackled in snow, provided care is taken. In winter, in fact, it is essential to check the ground conditions and, if necessary, to equip oneself adequately with crampons or other specific equipment. In some steeper sections, the presence of ice may require extra caution.
The start is from the centre of Premana, in an area that once housed the village's industrial activity. We cross the Varrone stream on a stone bridge, and immediately follow the signs for the Casera Vecchia hut. The agro-silvopastoral road immediately becomes clear: you walk along a fairly level path, crossing a series of fields and woods. Along the way, you will also come across the Agriturismo Giabi, an ideal spot for a short break.
Once past the farmhouse, you begin to gain altitude with a slight up and downhill stretch. You pass under the chestnut trees and reach Gebbio, a small nucleus of houses, where you can read information on the panel about the opening of the refuge. Continuing along the road, we cross an area characterised by a chapel dedicated to Sant'Uberto, ideal for a stop and perhaps a picnic lunch, given the presence of picnic tables.
Reaching Alpe Forni, at an altitude of around 1,105 m, the route is enriched by a new view: the landscape changes and the silence of the mountain becomes more intense. Here, there is a small village that marks an important intermediate stage.
Beyond Alpe Forni, the route becomes steeper, but never challenging. The road gives way to the path, which leads through the pines, offering an increasingly wide view of the valley below. Here the landscape changes rapidly, passing from green areas to denser woods. The ascent continues without any particular difficulty, although care should be taken in the wetter areas where there may be slabs of ice, especially in the colder months.
After crossing a small bridge, the path becomes even more atmospheric. A further climb, then you come to a fork in the path, which points in the direction of the Casera Vecchia hut. You cross another panoramic area and finally reach the incredible Varrone basin, with Pizzo Varrone towering imposingly in the background.
The hut, hidden in the mountains, appears as a safe and warm refuge, a little corner of paradise where one can rest after a walk of about three hours. The view from here is one that is worth every step of the way, a landscape that remains etched in the memory, like a dream realised.
The Casera Vecchia di Varrone Refuge is an excellent destination for those seeking a genuine mountain, far from the crowds of tourists. This route, while not presenting extreme difficulties, offers an experience that combines the pleasure of walking with that of discovering an intact corner of the Alps. It is perfect for those who want to enjoy breathtaking views, breathe pure air and, why not, refresh themselves with typical dishes that speak of the tradition of these lands.
An excursion that knows how to give the right amount of fatigue, but also great satisfaction once the goal is reached. And, if you decide to descend the same route, you will once again be able to enjoy the beauty of the Valvarrone, which reveals itself in every corner as a surprise not to be missed.
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