Griera Refuge - Loop tour from Pagnona
28 May 2025
Towards Rifugio Rosalba: a Grignetta classic among spires and legend
Rifugio Rosalba is located in one of the most striking positions in the Grigne: nestled on the Colle del Pertusio, it overlooks Lake Lecco like a natural balcony, surrounded by a veritable garden of stone. The limestone formations that surround it — monoliths, spires, pinnacles — seem to have sprung from the imagination of a visionary sculptor. In this almost Dolomitic landscape, legendary climbing groups such as the Ragni di Lecco took their first mountaineering steps, writing some of the most fascinating pages of Italian vertical history here.
One of the most classic and accessible routes to Rifugio Rosalba is the Sentiero delle Foppe (No. 9), which starts from Piani dei Resinelli, a real landmark for hikers and climbers. The hike is within the reach of well-trained walkers and immediately offers spectacular views and a crescendo of emotions that culminate in the view from the refuge's terrace.
After leaving the car near the former Alippi Refuge (1180m), you begin walking along an asphalt road that soon becomes a dirt track. The first steps wind through fences, scattered houses, and some meadows, with the Lake of Lecco starting to become visible, framed by the tree branches. The landscape is quiet, but the surroundings already hint at something wilder.
The path soon enters the woods, alternating short descents with uphill sections. Old painted markers on rocks, wooden signs and a few cables fixed to the rock accompany the more exposed, but never truly dangerous, passages. An excursion that maintains a good balance between nature, technicality and beauty.
Having overcome an old landslide, the path begins to climb more decidedly. The switchbacks become progressively narrower, roots emerge, and one starts gaining altitude with greater determination. Some metal stirrups are encountered in the steepest sections, but they are only brief passages that add a touch of adventure.
As you ascend, woodland stretches alternate with sudden panoramic views of the lake, which now appears in all its glory. The spires of the Grignetta become ever closer and more imposing: Punta Giulia, La Mongolfiera, Torre Costanza, and higher still, the famous Torrioni Magnaghi.
Around the halfway point, you'll come to a fork: to the left, continue on the Sentiero delle Foppe; to the right, take the more challenging Sentiero dei Morti, reserved for experienced hikers. Those who wish can use this variation for a circular hike, going up one side and down the other. But be warned: if in doubt, it's better to tackle the Sentiero dei Morti downhill, because there's an escape route that allows you to return to the simpler path in time.
In the final metres, the landscape becomes almost lunar: the greenery thins out, rock takes over, and the path becomes entrenched between rocky outcrops and earth. You walk among spires and pinnacles, pass solitary birch trees, and slowly gain altitude until you emerge onto the final ridge.
The refuge appears suddenly, solid and welcoming, set among the crags. The view from up there repays every effort: the Lake of Lecco sparkles below, the Grigne rise all around and, on clear days, your gaze stretches to the peaks of the western Alps.
Travel time: around 1 hour 50 minutes uphill
Altitude difference: 600 metres approximately
Difficulty: E (Hikers)
Recommended for: moderately fit hikers, with suitable boots and clothing
Best time: spring and autumn, when the sky is clear and the colours of the mountain are more intense
Rifugio Rosalba is not just a destination: it's a journey through the mysterious shapes of the Grignetta, an open-air mountain school, a place where the history of Lombard alpinism can be felt. Reaching it on foot is a small rite of passage for those who love true mountain life.
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